The PANIC Button

Ok, bit of explanation first.  We have a iMac set up as a 'democratic jukebox' at HAC:Manchester.  The idea being that anyone can put music on it, and it plays the entire library on shuffle during our hack sessions for a bit of background music.

The problem is, of course, some people have an... odd taste in music, so sometimes the jukebox ends up flipping between Aqua and Cannibal Corpse for ten minutes, and the horror of this was just too much!

Enter the PANIC button.

 

The button uses a minimus board. The minimus is a carrier for the AT90USB162, an AVR microcontroller with onboard USB hardware, which means it can be programmed to show up as any USB device.  Before getting the button I modified one of the pieces of LUFA demo software, a media keyboard, and stripped it down to just read the one button on the minimus.  When the button is pressed, it sends the keycode for next track. 

The button's housing is a joke button that played an alarm and flashed when pressed, I ripped its guts out to get to the switch.  After finding the switch contacts on the original board, i soldered on two wires to connecto to the AVR.

Next,  I stripped off the USB connector  from the minimus, and added a 1m USB lead directly to the pads, to make it fit in the old speaker housing section of the button.  I connected the leads from the button to PD7 and GND on the minimus, the same as the onboard button.  This has the handy side effect that if the button is pressed while being plugged in, it boots into DFU mode, allowing me to upgrade the firmware easily.

I cut a slot in the casing for the wire to escape, and added a couple of cable ties for strain relief.

Press Button, Song Skips, Panic averted!

 [Download Code] - AVR C

Review - Farnell #5019849 - HM100 Digital Multimeter


Today, we have a HM100 Digital Multimeter from our friends at farnell!

The multimeter gives a lot of features for not much money, costing only £31.23.  Functions include:

  • Autoranging (so you dont have to keep changing settings until you find if you should be in Ohms or MegaOhms)
  • Backlit (for hacking in the dark)
  • Auto Power off (who doesnt forget to turn their meter off)
  • Diode Tester with Beep
  • Measurements include
    • AC & DC Voltage
    • AC & DC Current
    • Capacitance
    • Resistance
    • hFe (Transistor Gain) 
    • Temperature (using supplied probe)

 First impressions when opening it up are very good, the accessories are all well packed, i was surprised by the inclusion of remote thermocouple for temperature sensing, as that isnt a feature normally found on such cheap meters.  The LCD screen is nice and BIG, so you can see the numbers even in low light, and the clip-out stand is a very clever addition.

Sensing voltage is fairly easy, switch the meter to AC or DC, and put the probes of the meter across the thing you want to measure the voltage across.  

Current is also easy, interrupt the circuit, and put the meter in-line with the circuit you want to measure.

Resistance sensing is the same as in most multimeters, put the probes in parallel with the device you want to measure the resistance of.  Bear in mind that if you're measuring something thats already in a circuit, you'll be measuring the resistance of the whole circuit between those two points, not just of the device you're looking at!

To measure Capacitance, use the multi-function socket, and plug in your capacitor to the  holes next to Cx.  If your capacitor is polarised, make sure you plug it in the right way round! Measuring this capacitorshows it's actual value is 50uF less than it is marked. 

 

hFE is transistor gain, and is often misunderstood, so i'll try and give a quick overview of it.  Transistor Gain is the amount of amplification between the current flowing into the base pin (Base Current, Ib) and the current flowing into the collector pin (Collector Current, Ic).  It can be calculated by dividing the Collector Current by the Base Current, and has no units.  To get the total current rating of the transistor, we add together Ib and Ic, to get Ie, the Emitter Current.

Lets add some numbers!  hFE = Ic / Ib, so if the current flowing into base is 100mA, and the current flowing into collector is 1000mA, the hFE will be 1000mA/100mA = 10.

This also works the other way round, so if we know the hFE transistor of our transistor is 10, and the Base Current is 100mA, we multiply them to get the Collector Current 10*100mA = 1000mA = 1A.  If we need the total current rating we can now add together Ic and Ib, getting 1100mA (1.1A).

To test the gain of a transistor on the meter, first check the data sheet for the pinout of the transistor.  Put the transistor into the multi-function socket.  The meter will show the the gain of your transistor!  Yay!   

An unusual function on a low cost meter, the thermocouple allows you to measure temperatures from -20ºC to 1000ºC (!!!)

 

The Diode tester is used to measure the forward voltage drop of a diode.  You can also use it to check the polarity of a diode by trying the diode in each way.

Sometimes, you've just gotta check that something is connected.  The Continuity tester lets you 'beep it out', ie. it will emit an audible beep if the probes are connected.  We often use this when making a PCB, as you can end up with tiny shorts or track breaks that can make really odd things happen!

General Usage & Verdict

First off, bad points!  There are a couple of (very) minor oddities i've noticed while using the meter, the first being that you have to manually switch it to DC when measuring Voltage or Current.  As a hobbyist, i'm usually using DC, so it'd be nice if this setting was remembered between function changes.  Relatedly, when the auto power off is activated, and the meter turns off, turning it back on puts you back in AC mode.  Its not a massive problem of course, but has led to a few head-scratching moments.

All in all, the HM100 is a fully featured multimeter, for a sensible price, with a few minor niggles.  For 30 quid, it provides functionality only usually seen on a £150+ multimeter.  If i was after a multimeter, i'd buy one!

Minimus Pin Functions

Whipped up this quick cheat sheet with all the different functions each minimus pin can perform.

IMMA CHARGING MAH LAZOR (CUTTER)

After much deliberation, i finally pushed the button last week and bought a laser cutter! Hooray!

Its a DC-K40III [eBay], which you might know as the Rabbit HX40a, Omnisign Pro 200, or 'cheap generic eBay chinese 40W laser cutter'.

Of course, being cheap, it has its problems. The first of which will be familiar to anybody who has used a chinese laser cutter before, the dreaded MoshiDraw. This is the software that drives these machines, and can best be described as FUCKING AWFUL. To remedy this issue, I am planning on replacing the Laser's mainboard with a LAOS board from laoslaser.org. This board is a ground-up replacement board , designed for entirely this application.

LAOS Features

  • Based around an MBed LPC1768 Microcontroller, a 90mHz ARM chip with 32k of Memory.
  • Ethernet controlled - no need to be on a single PC
  • Printer Driver - LAOS uses CUPS, so is used as a regular printer.  The CUPS driver is cross platform, with support for Linux, MacOSX, and Windows.
  • Direct printing from applications - You can print to it direct from Inkscape, so no worrying about converting to a PDF or HPGL file before printing.
  • Open Source Hardware & Software - The most important one from my point fo view, this means the hardware and software are modifiable, so new and exciting features can be added!

More Photos

R3volution - Time for a fresh start

Well, r2 made it into a maze!  then crashed into the walls of that maze over... and over... and over... anyway, it diddnt work, and looks unlikely to work in the near or far future.

So i've spent some time fiddling with my CAD software, and now have a basic design ready to announce R3volution, my third micromouse!

Its a bit of an... unconventional design, with massive foam rubber wheels that i hope will give me a nice big contact patch, and therefore more traction on the ground.

The Gearbox is made up of 3 parts, a 3d printed 'backbone' and a pair of laser cut 'plates'

They are all designed in OpenSCAD, and set up in a parametric way, so i can adjust things like the angle of the motors and the height of the base plate without having to rebuild the entire cad files from scratch.  

It uses Faulhaber 1524SR motors with integrated encoders and 0.4 mod gearing, giving me a final gear ratio of 1:12.8, slightly higher than most mice (i think), but balanced out by the fact my wheels are HUGE.  The Axle for each side is a m4 bolt, mounted on mf84zz bearings and fixed to a custom wheel mounting system i'll be making on a lathe.

Electronics to follow when i've finished buying parts for & building the gearbox!

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